MEG by Alten Steve

Author:Alten, Steve
Language: eng
Format: epub

MEG

NORTHSHORE

The towering thirty-​foot swells rolled into Oahu's SunsetBeach, carrying large chunks of whale blubber and debris that littered the sand. The two hundred-​odd tourists didn't seem to mind. They'd been gathering all day to watch local surfers brave the most dangerous waves on earth, where wiping out could mean crashing into the sharp coral reef below.

Eighteen-​year-​old Zach Richards had been cutting waves on Oahu's Northshore since he was twelve. His younger brother Jim had only recently begun training on the mammoth waves that rolled in each winter from Alaska and Siberia. The afternoon swells had been rising steadily with the incoming tide. Now, as evening approached, the waves were reaching heights of twenty-​five feet or more. The bloody chunks of whale carcass were more than a nuisance... shark fins had been spotted sporadically all day. Still, the surfers had an audience, mostly girls, and to Zach and Jim that alone was worth the risk.

Jim was still pulling on his black wet suit when Zach and two of his surfer buddies, Scott and Ryan, caught their first set of waves. Glancing back at Marie McGuire, he gave a quick wave. When the brunette waved back, he almost tripped on his board in his hurry to get in the surf and join the group.

Michael Barnes, a twenty-​two-​year-​old with a tattoo on every muscle, had caught a twenty-​footer. Spotting the paddling surfer, he cut across the wave to intercept. Jim looked up at the last moment to see Barnes's surfboard on a collision course with his head! Quickly, he rolled off his own board and braced his head between both hands, tucking his chin. The concussion of the incoming wave plowed into his stomach, driving him toward the bottom, then tossing and dragging him thirty feet in to shore. Coughing up salt water, Jim rose to the surface in time to see Barnes riding the wave out, laughing as he glanced back.

“You're an asshole, Barnes!” Jim yelled, but the surfer was too far away to hear. Jim's leash had kept his board close, and he squirmed back on and paddled out to his brother. Zach was waiting just beyond the break point, straddling his own board.

“You okay, Jimmy?”

“What's that guy's problem, man?”

“Barnes was born an asshole and he'll die an asshole,” said Scott.

“Yeah, well I hope it's soon.”

“Try to stay out of his way,” Scott warned. “He's not worth dealing with.”

“C'mon Jim,” said his brother. “Let's ride some waves. Remember, just go, don't hesitate. Put your head down and paddle as hard as you can. You'll feel the wave take you, just aim for the bottom, make a turn, and ride it out. When you kick out, your legs'll probably be shaking. If you do down, tuck tight, stay away from the bottom, the coral will...”

“Slice me up. I know, Mom.”

“Hey, girls,” Scott teased, “enough yapping. Let's go...”

Jim fell on his stomach, paddled hard, and raced toward the break. All three surfers caught the swell, a massive twenty-​eight-​footer that broke to the right. Jim bounced on his feet gracefully, but took the descent at too great an angle.

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